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New York

THE STANDARD GRILL

New York

THE STANDARD GRILL

BEST NEW BISTRO

THE STANDARD GRILL

shortlisted by Lefooding

WHO
Boutique hotel masters The Standard brought in chef Rocco DiSpirito, a mega celebrity from the 00s who lost himself in stardom, TV shows and brand endorsements, despite being considered the best chef of his generation. For his surprise comeback, he’s relaunching the 10-year-old Standard Grill and this unexpected and humble undertaking doesn’t disappoint, feeling like the 2000s in the best possible way. Low lighting, tufted leather banquettes, a glamorous scene, creative seafood platters, impeccable drinks and wait staff in white tuxedos. A fun and tasty New York vignette that barely exists any more (the menu does say “welcome to jungle, we’ve got fun and games”…!)

FOOD
“Healthful and indulgent” is how the menu is introduced, “featuring a fresh daily raw bar and dishes from the binchotan-fired grill” (binchotan being a virtuous, purifying charcoal made from Japanese white oak).
You can’t start without the much-talked-about Peconic bay scallops & uni, a dish that made Rocco famous in the 2000s, mixing the elite products of the seafood world in their shell with tomato water, mustard oil and a hint of chili ($25 for 5). Not cheap, but delicious and incredibly fresh.
The tuna tartare ($21...!), another hit from the past decade, features perfect cubes of wild yellowfin tuna mingling with fresh wasabi and cilantro. The “healthful” twist here is the side of scrumptious, gluten-free flax seed crackers.
Skip the skewers ($33 for 3) – the value-to-portion size ratio is a little ridiculous and the flavors, unmemorable…
The same can’t be said about the meat; from the “Special Cuts” section “for two or more,” we went all out and picked the 44 oz. Porterhouse steak that evening ($150), aged for 60 days and grilled on binchotan. It comes with the bone, topped with a bountiful bouquet of herbs; the skin was lacking a little crunch, but the meat was well cooked and very flavorful.
In classic 00s style, the dessert menu includes a yuzu tart ($11), a Baked Alaska ($15) and the hilarious “chocolate bombe” ($19) for two to four guests, that’s shaped like a chocolate dome covered in gold leaf, broken by the waiter to reveal a comforting mix of chocolate mousse and mascarpone.

DRINKS
Impeccable classic American cocktails ($16 each), from the Old Fashioned to the Manhattan or the Negroni. The bar staff knows their stuff, accommodates without ego and offers several types of every spirit.
The wine list is large, with a focus on France and California. You won’t find a lot of funky bottles here, nor many cheap options either, but it’s in keeping with the general spirit/era and the food. Wouldn’t it be sexy, at times, to go back to a classic Bordeaux or Burgundy wine! Looking for something natural-ish, we went for the Chateau La Grangere, an organic St Emilion Grand Cru ($62).

DECOR
The initial Standard Grill was decorated by hospitality design moguls Roman & Williams – a few subtle updates were made for this new iteration. The tiled, vaulted ceiling are reminiscent of the iconic Grand Central Oyster Bar, the lights are dim, heavy velvet curtains are draped across the windows and a multitude of booths create intimacy for lovers and the happy few. The open kitchen reminds diners that this place is more than just a scene!

NOISE
N/A

SEATING
Comfortable, with banquettes for almost every table and lots of intimate booths. Ask for a window table if you can, they’re more cozy and spacious.

VIBE
Very New York, bustling but intimate, grand but cozy, with a colorful crowd of international travelers, power-dinner VPs, models, and now-serious foodies.

RESTROOMS
Grand but much more futuristic than the grill, with stark marble, metal nets and mirrors all around. There’s also a photo booth on the way to the bathroom – when Instagram is not enough!

SERVICE
Top notch, chic, present and witty. Those white tuxedos! 20%+ (though the bill is already salty).

WOULD RECOMMEND
Totally, if you can afford it and have something to celebrate. It’s really about the whole experience. It’s a great place to see and be seen and where it hurts (your wallet) so good! 

WHO
Boutique hotel masters The Standard brought in chef Rocco DiSpirito, a mega celebrity from the 00s who lost himself in stardom, TV shows and brand endorsements, despite being considered the best chef of his generation. For his surprise comeback, he’s relaunching the 10-year-old Standard Grill and this unexpected and humble undertaking doesn’t disappoint, feeling like the 2000s in the best possible way. Low lighting, tufted leather banquettes, a glamorous scene, creative seafood platters, impeccable drinks and wait staff in white tuxedos. A fun and tasty New York vignette that barely exists any more (the menu does say “welcome to jungle, we’ve got fun and games”…!)

FOOD
“Healthful and indulgent” is how the menu is introduced, “featuring a fresh daily raw bar and dishes from the binchotan-fired grill” (binchotan being a virtuous, purifying charcoal made from Japanese white oak).
You can’t start without the much-talked-about Peconic bay scallops & uni, a dish that made Rocco famous in the 2000s, mixing the elite products of the seafood world in their shell with tomato water, mustard oil and a hint of chili ($25 for 5). Not cheap, but delicious and incredibly fresh.
The tuna tartare ($21...!), another hit from the past decade, features perfect cubes of wild yellowfin tuna mingling with fresh wasabi and cilantro. The “healthful” twist here is the side of scrumptious, gluten-free flax seed crackers.
Skip the skewers ($33 for 3) – the value-to-portion size ratio is a little ridiculous and the flavors, unmemorable…
The same can’t be said about the meat; from the “Special Cuts” section “for two or more,” we went all out and picked the 44 oz. Porterhouse steak that evening ($150), aged for 60 days and grilled on binchotan. It comes with the bone, topped with a bountiful bouquet of herbs; the skin was lacking a little crunch, but the meat was well cooked and very flavorful.
In classic 00s style, the dessert menu includes a yuzu tart ($11), a Baked Alaska ($15) and the hilarious “chocolate bombe” ($19) for two to four guests, that’s shaped like a chocolate dome covered in gold leaf, broken by the waiter to reveal a comforting mix of chocolate mousse and mascarpone.

DRINKS
Impeccable classic American cocktails ($16 each), from the Old Fashioned to the Manhattan or the Negroni. The bar staff knows their stuff, accommodates without ego and offers several types of every spirit.
The wine list is large, with a focus on France and California. You won’t find a lot of funky bottles here, nor many cheap options either, but it’s in keeping with the general spirit/era and the food. Wouldn’t it be sexy, at times, to go back to a classic Bordeaux or Burgundy wine! Looking for something natural-ish, we went for the Chateau La Grangere, an organic St Emilion Grand Cru ($62).

DECOR
The initial Standard Grill was decorated by hospitality design moguls Roman & Williams – a few subtle updates were made for this new iteration. The tiled, vaulted ceiling are reminiscent of the iconic Grand Central Oyster Bar, the lights are dim, heavy velvet curtains are draped across the windows and a multitude of booths create intimacy for lovers and the happy few. The open kitchen reminds diners that this place is more than just a scene!

NOISE
N/A

SEATING
Comfortable, with banquettes for almost every table and lots of intimate booths. Ask for a window table if you can, they’re more cozy and spacious.

VIBE
Very New York, bustling but intimate, grand but cozy, with a colorful crowd of international travelers, power-dinner VPs, models, and now-serious foodies.

RESTROOMS
Grand but much more futuristic than the grill, with stark marble, metal nets and mirrors all around. There’s also a photo booth on the way to the bathroom – when Instagram is not enough!

SERVICE
Top notch, chic, present and witty. Those white tuxedos! 20%+ (though the bill is already salty).

WOULD RECOMMEND
Totally, if you can afford it and have something to celebrate. It’s really about the whole experience. It’s a great place to see and be seen and where it hurts (your wallet) so good! 

CHEF

Rocco DiSpirito

OPENING DAYS

Tuesday to Saturday: 5:30 p.m. to 10:30 p.m.

RESERVATIONS

The restaurant accepts bookings up to 30 days in advance via email TheStandardGrill@StandardHotels.com

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