LE MAQUIS

WHO
Co-owners and co-chefs Paul Boudier and Albert Touton (formerly of Parisian hotspots Le Chateaubriand, Le Verre Volé, Aux Deux Amis) gave new life to this old-school bistro with help from Salvatore Rotiroti (Il Brigante) and Roman in the front of house.

FOOD
Paul and Albert share kitchen duties both at lunch and at dinner serving modernized French bistro fare you wish you could eat every day.
A few dishes we’ve had on the $18 lunch menu:
To start:
- Fresh mackerel with crunchy cucumbers, fresh cream and horseradish
- Leeks with a deliciously mustardy vinaigrette and loads of parsley sprigs also
Mains:
- Decadent salt cod brandade with loads of buttery breadcrumbs on top and a heap of crunchy lettuce to cut the fat on the side
- Crispy bork belly with sesame infused rice drizzled with pork fat and peppers
Desserts:
- Simple slice of seasonal almond-fig tart
- Rich chocolate cake
At night the kitchen doubles the number of offerings, which can be eaten any way you please. You want to order a bunch of things and share? Go for it. You want to selfishly have a starter, a main and a dessert all to yourself? You can do that to. The idea here is just good food.

DRINKS
Short unfussy wine list including a Loire white, Le Puits, from Olivier Lemasson (€5 a glass), an Aude red from the Domaine du Temps (€36 a bottle), an Hérault from Le Mas Foulaquier (€38)… If you’re not in a wine mood they serve the always dependable draft beer Jupiler (€3,50 for half a pint)

DECOR
Slightly freshened up dive bar vibes with the original Basque red façade, old tile floors, crimson benches and chalkboard menu.

NOISE
Friendly chatter.

SEATING
The restaurant is made up of an assortment of bar stools (in front of the kitchen area and/or looking out the windows) and mismatched tables and chairs.

VIBE
Super laidback and neighborhoody.

RESTROOMS
Never been.

SERVICE
Professional with a dry sense of humor.

WOULD RECOMMEND
Although we would like to keep this address to ourselves, it’s the kind of place you want to recommend to everyone. Because what’s not to like?