WHO Sabina Bandera, also known as La Güerita or Guerrero, is a Baja California seafood legend. Originally from the state of Guerrero, where she was making dairy products, it wasn’t until she moved to Ensenada that she discovered the world of fresh seafood. As her talent developed, a street cart turned into a restaurant, then to a distributor and finally, to a Mexico City sensation. FOOD Principally tacos and tostadas, the house specialty. Mostly fish creations served cold on hard, flat shells. Order at the register and give your name, then venture over to the traditional condiments bar once you’ve been served (green chile sauce for the win). The highlights: Sea urchin and clam ceviche topped with avocado slices and a mild red chile sauce – $147 Fresh fish pâté, topped with avocado slices, which you can garnish as you please – $45 Traditional shrimp tacos, fried on soft tortillas, with the toppings of your choice – $40 DRINKS House wine – red, rosé and white ($77 a glass, $308 a bottle) – and dark or light beer ($64). Try a mug of the sweet house aguas frescas (strawberry or the particularly delectable barley – $32), or if you’re feeling adventurous, the snail cocktail. DECOR Located in an expansive food court, it’s the first restaurant as you enter to the left, so the decor has a distinctly food court feel, but at least it’s a CDMX food court! It’s done in a very eclectic and stylish way, and one can definitely still feel the love. Think more a collection of country market restaurants all conveniently grouped under one roof. NOISE Mexican rock piped through the sound system. You won’t notice it, and in any case, you’ll be in and out in no time, undoubtedly with a smile as big as a halfmoon taco on your face. SEATING High metal stools at circular tables. You won’t necessarily want to linger, this is a place where you can get down to business, enjoy it and go. Pull a couple of the tables together if you’ve got a crowd. VIBE Even though it’s inside, this might as well be high-end open air street food (and the multiple awards from the L.A. Street Food Fest confirm it). Open to the street, regulars and tourists come and go and the vibe is casual, filled with laughter and joy. RESTROOMS Exceptional. Upstairs, adjacent to the swankiest restaurant in the food court, all wood-paneled and impeccable. SERVICE Self-service, although there are plenty of helpful hands on deck to explain the entire menu, mostly in Spanish. WOULD RECOMMEND Absolutely! Had enough of tacos (you’re crazy!)? These tostadas would reaffirm anyone’s devotion to Mexican street food.
WHO Sabina Bandera, also known as La Güerita or Guerrero, is a Baja California seafood legend. Originally from the state of Guerrero, where she was making dairy products, it wasn’t until she moved to Ensenada that she discovered the world of fresh seafood. As her talent developed, a street cart turned into a restaurant, then to a distributor and finally, to a Mexico City sensation. FOOD Principally tacos and tostadas, the house specialty. Mostly fish creations served cold on hard, flat shells. Order at the register and give your name, then venture over to the traditional condiments bar once you’ve been served (green chile sauce for the win). The highlights: Sea urchin and clam ceviche topped with avocado slices and a mild red chile sauce – $147 Fresh fish pâté, topped with avocado slices, which you can garnish as you please – $45 Traditional shrimp tacos, fried on soft tortillas, with the toppings of your choice – $40 DRINKS House wine – red, rosé and white ($77 a glass, $308 a bottle) – and dark or light beer ($64). Try a mug of the sweet house aguas frescas (strawberry or the particularly delectable barley – $32), or if you’re feeling adventurous, the snail cocktail. DECOR Located in an expansive food court, it’s the first restaurant as you enter to the left, so the decor has a distinctly food court feel, but at least it’s a CDMX food court! It’s done in a very eclectic and stylish way, and one can definitely still feel the love. Think more a collection of country market restaurants all conveniently grouped under one roof. NOISE Mexican rock piped through the sound system. You won’t notice it, and in any case, you’ll be in and out in no time, undoubtedly with a smile as big as a halfmoon taco on your face. SEATING High metal stools at circular tables. You won’t necessarily want to linger, this is a place where you can get down to business, enjoy it and go. Pull a couple of the tables together if you’ve got a crowd. VIBE Even though it’s inside, this might as well be high-end open air street food (and the multiple awards from the L.A. Street Food Fest confirm it). Open to the street, regulars and tourists come and go and the vibe is casual, filled with laughter and joy. RESTROOMS Exceptional. Upstairs, adjacent to the swankiest restaurant in the food court, all wood-paneled and impeccable. SERVICE Self-service, although there are plenty of helpful hands on deck to explain the entire menu, mostly in Spanish. WOULD RECOMMEND Absolutely! Had enough of tacos (you’re crazy!)? These tostadas would reaffirm anyone’s devotion to Mexican street food.
CHEF
Sabina Bandera
OPENING HOURS
Wednesday to Monday: 11:00 a.m. to 7:00 p.m. Closed Tuesday.
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